Lindridge-Martin Manor is technically its own neighborhood, but it can often feel like it’s a part of adjacent Decatur nabes Woodland Hills (different from the Woodland Hills in Atlanta proper) and La Vista Park. While these nabes are technically located in different cities, they share some of the same joys—popular restaurant districts and close proximity to major Atlanta neighborhoods like Buckhead and Midtown.  But they also share one major headache too: traffic.  This bustling area includes popular Atlanta landmarks like Emory University, the Center for Disease Control (CDC), shopping districts of Lindbergh and Cheshire Bridge Road, and some of the busiest roads in northeast Atlanta.  It’s this issue that has brought them together, acting as one neighborhood.

Brad Grulke lives in Woodland Hills and is a member of the La Vista Corridor Coalition (LLCC)—a non-profit corporation made-up of the three aforementioned neighborhoods: Lindridge-Martin Manor, La Vista Park, and Woodland Hills.

The LLCC’s focus is on maintaining neighborhood integrity while new developments are happening and addressing issues with walkability, traffic, and improving inefficient roadways. 

In the following interview, Brad tells us about the project as well as what it’s like to live in a neighborhood that’s on the brink of becoming one of Atlanta’s next hot spots for in-town living.

How long have you lived in this area?

We’ve lived here for 7 years. 

How would you describe this area for people who have never been here before?

Transforming.  The Cheshire Bridge area is continuing to be redeveloped and improved.  There are a lot of new businesses and new opportunities that are happening about every month in our area.

I think from a demographic standpoint, you’re seeing a lot of families appear into the area, and from a business standpoint, what you’re seeing are businesses looking for areas to redevelop, and for commercial properties to either tear down and remodel or rezone.  You are seeing a lot of that specifically at the corner of Cheshire Bridge Road and La Vista Road where the Publix is [grocery store].  There’s mixed-use development called La Vista Walk, and then you are seeing redevelopment on the corner of that street, so it’s pretty constant.

That’s really nice because the Cheshire Bridge area that I know is one that’s pretty eclectic.

Ya, five-star restaurants to shanty porn shops.

Yes, and just around the corner there are single family homes, so it seems like the families are co-existing with the rest of the neighborhood.  It sounds like they want to see the area change.  Is that accurate?

Yes, and Cheshire Bridge has a business association now that is working to guide that redevelopment and remodel the sidewalks to try and make it more pedestrian friendly.  There is a Taste of Cheshire Bridge tour that in the past has been co-sponsored by LLCC, but I think in the future of it is going to be taken over by Cheshire Bridge Business Association, where every summer they are doing a tasting and testing of the best restaurants in that area.  From Nino’s to Woodfire Grill and Nakato and everyone else involved.

How would you describe the types of people that live here?

Well the neighborhoods are all about, essentially 60 years old, so you have people who have lived there for 20 years, 40 years, or lived there their whole life.  You’ve got a very large contingent of people that have lived there in the 5-15 year range that are really to looking to make in-town living in this area what they do for the rest of their lives.  You’ve got great highway access; the benefit of Virginia-Highland that is right across the railroad tracks; you’ve got Midtown down by Piedmont Road, and of course Buckhead up by Lenox Road.

Is this your ideal neighborhood? Why or why not? 

Well, it certainly is for us.  We actually just remodeled our entire house with the plan that this is where our family is going to live.  What I think we love about it is, we have a great neighborhood foundation.  We’ve got great businesses within a 3-5 mile radius that you can basically not leave if you don’t ever want to.  You’ve got a suburban feeling with the amenities of everything in-town.

Are there any myths or stereotypes about your nabe you’d like to dispel?

I think the Cheshire Bridge Road area.  When you look at it and have this perception of what it is, it’s mostly negative.  And it’s really not true.  There are many high-quality restaurants and good businesses in that area that have been overshadowed.

[Cheshire Bridge Road is often considered a quirky road because of the hodge-podge of businesses there.  You can find fine-dining establishments next to a strip-club next to an antique dealer.]

Were you surprised by anything when you moved here? 

The affordability factor.  We are still in this triangle of Midtown, Virginia-Highland, and Buckhead without the price.  The houses are extremely affordable.  Us living in DeKalb County by about 6 houses helps from a tax standpoint.  It’s an affordable living area that is still up and coming, and we will only see those prices appreciate as the redevelopment continues.

For the areas we are talking about (Woodland Hills, Lindridge-Martin Manor, La Vista Park) you currently sit on a board there.  Tell me a little about it.

The Lindbergh La Vista Corridor Coalition [LLCC] is a combination of three neighborhoods: Woodland Hills [in Decatur], La Vista Park, and Lindridge-Martin Manor.  Through the LLCC, these neighborhoods are working together to map out the future and redevelopment of this area to make sure that it happens with the vision we have and have paid Perkins + Will to help us create a blueprint plan.  Sort of a guide to help mold the future of this area.

What is currently going on with the Clifton Corridor Project?

Well we just really have gone through a 6-month process of finalizing and working alongside with MARTA, Perkins + Will, and all surrounding neighborhoods to hopefully shape the redevelopment of the Clifton Corridor from a MARTA standpoint and what that will look like.  We are very happy with the proposed outcome at this point, and hopefully that is what will end up happening.  We are constantly facing some kind of redevelopment, and we are pro-redevelopment.  We just want to see it done in keeping with the density of in-town living but with the neighborhood feel that we have, trying to maintain that. 

In trying to maintain that, what have you done to make sure that the residents are in agreement?  That it’s going along with what they need?

Well the blueprint plan is first and foremost the guide to that development.  We had this developed by Georgia Tech [Georgia Institute of Technology] to see how this area could be developed.  We used that as a guideline, as in any redevelopment project, and working with the contractors and business owners to say this is what we envision, and we want you to work within these plans to help shape this area.  We send out invites to residents to get input at community meetings, and whenever we do have a redevelopment possibility, we do invite the neighbors to get involved and to understand the projects.  Dependence is very heavy to ensure that what those business owners will be doing is in the best interest of us as residents.

Is the funding coming from that sales tax or are there multiple sources?

No, it’s not dependent on the sales tax.  They are looking at that as a source, but there are a lot of sources they are looking at.

Will there be business developments along the Clifton-Corridor development? 

I think we are too early in the stages, but I think that’s the goal.  With the MARTA stop off Cheshire Bridge Road and the one on Sage Hill [a shopping center between Briarcliff Road and Clifton Road], you’ll see that area developed more densely and probably improving or new businesses will be interested in getting into that area.  But we are probably still 10 years away from that.

Do you know if the BeltLine is near this area?

Yes.  The BeltLine will connect to Lindbergh MARTA station, but our project [Clifton Corridor Transit Initiative] with MARTA will connect Lindbergh Station to Emory and beyond.  That’s going right through our backyard on the CSX tracks [freight rail line] that separate our neighborhood from Morningside, and there will be a stop.  As of right now it’s going to be an underground light rail system with a stop at Cheshire Bridge Road and Sage Hill where the Kroger is [grocery store].  It will be great from an in-town livability standpoint because we will be able to walk and use the mass transit in the future.

From what I’ve been reading about the BeltLine and then smaller, neighborhood transportation projects, it sounds like there isn’t going to be one massive public transportation system.  It will be smaller pockets that all connect to one-another.

Well, I think our hope at the LLCC is that it will be a light transit rail, and that will add connectivity to the BeltLine and take it to Piedmont Park or the Old Fourth Ward Park.

Is there anything else about the project that you want to mention?

I think they are also going to do some streetscape with it and some foot-trails to make it easier for residents to get to the stations.  It’s not by any means finalized.  Right now though, both sides are very happy with it.  

Going back to the area in general, is there anything about this neighborhood that you’d like to change? 

I think probably similar to every neighborhood in Atlanta.  We need more sidewalks because it is a very congested area just like anywhere else in Atlanta, and pedestrian safety is a concern because of the lack of sidewalks and especially in the main corridors near La Vista Road.

I’ve been hearing that a lot about in-town neighborhoods; that it’s the best of suburban and urban living. 

Yes, and I think that is unique to Atlanta.  We have a general two-story house that if there weren’t 100-year-old trees we would see every building in Atlanta.  But the trees give it that feeling of enclosure that I’ve never seen in another big city.

Are there any bad areas in your neighborhood? If not, which street/block would you not want to live on?

I don’t think so.  I mean there are all types, all ethnicities, all income levels living in the La Vista corridor.  I think we all have the same appreciation of family living and being neighbors.  It’s really a great area.  It’s a low-crime area.  It’s a hidden gem I think.  I really do.  

What’s the real estate like here?

You are going to see predominantly single-family homes with anywhere from a quarter to half-an-acre lot.  You are going to see homes that are 60 years old that are being redeveloped because of the great real estate that they have but also because of the age of the neighborhood.  You are seeing that people are putting money into their home instead of selling, and some of that is being driven from the housing market.  I also think it’s a conscience decision that it’s going to continue develop until it’s a true in-town style living.  Also, as people have families they want to stay with other families instead of moving away, so they may add onto their house.

You don’t see a lot of homes for sale.  The rental properties are certainly there, and they are probably more prevalent than they would have been 4 or 5 years ago.  For the most part, you see homes that are occupied.

Are you seeing a lot of redevelopments, teardowns or both?

You are seeing some teardowns but it’s probably 70% renovations and 30% teardowns.

How is this neighborhood different from other neighborhoods that are similar to it? 

Peachtree Hills is similar.  I think the biggest difference is just that affordability at this point.  Peachtree Hills is a much more developed neighborhood, and we are just still on our way to getting there.  I think what you will see here going forward is a combination of single-family homes, mixed-use residential, and business redevelopment that shapes it into a nice business and residential neighborhood.  I guess you could say it will look a lot like the west-side Collier Hills area, but I don’t think it will have as much of a major business, box store type of feel.  It will be much more independently owned stores.  At least that’s what I think will happen.

Do you have any advice for folks thinking about moving to your neighborhood?

No, I think you can’t go wrong with picking a place in this area.  I think it’s an up-and-coming area with a very bright future and a lot of families and people that are making this their long-term residence.

Kirkwood is a fast growing in-town neighborhood in eastern Atlanta, but it’s not just known for the gentrification that’s taking place.  As Joann of the Kirkwood Seed and Feed and the doggie day-care Kirkwood Bark and Lounge will tell you, it’s the kind of place where everyone knows each other, smiles, and says hi. 

How long have you lived or had your business here?

I use to live in Kirkwood, and now I live south of the city…. I lived here from 2001-2006, so 5 years.  The Feed and Seed opened in 2004, and then I expanded into this [Kirkwood Bark and Lounge] boarding unit for dogs in 2008.  In total, [I’ve been here for] a decade.

Wow, so being here a decade, I bet you’ve seen lots of change.

Yes, lot’s of change.  When I first came here there was just a coffee shop in the business district; the name was Sweet Java Brown, and then [my business]. That was it. The property where Kirkwood Station is now [a mixed-use town home property on Hosea Williams Drive in the downtown area of Kirkwood] used to be the old Hosea Williams property, and it was dilapidated and falling down.  It was a mess.  There were no other businesses.

When did the business district start getting built-up?

Well, the streetscape project where they re-did the sidewalks and all that was 2006, and then Kirkwood Station property sold, so everything starting building up in late 2006, early 2007.

Can you describe this neighborhood for folks that have never been here before?

It’s very diverse.  For an urban in-town neighborhood, it’s very close-knit; people watch out for one another.  Walker friendly, child friendly, pet friendly.  It’s just a very diverse neighborhood.  You’ll find people from old, young, gay, straight, families—people just moving into the area because people have heard so much about Kirkwood.

Why do you think that is?  Why do you think there is so much diversity?

I think it’s because the people that live here really promote the area and watch out for one another.  I think it’s a close-knit community, and people are looking for that in the in-town areas.

How would you describe the types of people that live here?

There are a lot of families.  Over the summer I think we had 8 people who had babies, so a lot of young couples having families.  So 60% families, probably 30% of them gay.  There are single folks who live here, but I would say primarily families.

Is this your ideal neighborhood?

For in-town living, I feel it’s ideal.  You’re going to have your problems in any neighborhood.  Highlands [Virginia-Highland] had their issues over the summer; Inman Park has had some issues.  So any in-town neighborhood you’re gonna have issues.  Ideal wise, it could grow more business wise.  There could be some nice anchor restaurants here.  I think that would really help out the neighborhood.  There have been issues with a couple restaurants turning, so if we had a nice stable, anchor restaurant, I think that would really help the area as a destination spot.  For living, again you have parks [Coan Park and Bessie Brenham Park], several parks in a walking radius.  It’s very pet friendly, so we have a pet business here, so we are a one-stop shop for everything.  We have a meat market that just opened up [Spotted Trotter], so people are coming for fabulous meat products.  There’s a lot to choose from.

Are there any myths or stereotypes about your nabe you’d like to dispel?

People in the past have said that it has high crime.  Again I think that in any urban area, you are going to have spikes in crime.  It happens here, and it happens in the suburbs, so I think it’s a myth that it only happens here.  I think Kirkwood had a bad rep for having a lot of crime, and I think really it’s a seasonal thing.  It’s also helped out that APD has rezoned some of the areas where Zone 6 [Kirkwood’s zone] isn’t as big, and they’ve added some patrols, so that has helped 

What did Zone 6 use to be?

Zone 6 went all the way up to Cheshire Bridge Road.  It was huge.  [Cheshire Bridge is about 20-30 minutes from Kirkwood, so that is a large area.]

Were you surprised by anything when you moved here?

I knew what I was getting into coming to Kirkwood, so I don’t think I was surprised.  I guess the friendliness of the area was kind of surprising to me because it was in-town and with the crime that they said was around, I didn’t expect everyone to be as friendly.  Walking friendly, people pushing strollers and saying hi. I knew it was re-gentrifying, so I knew there were issues.  But people are moving here, seeing the charm of Kirkwood.

What’s the best thing about your neighborhood?

The people.  I feel my customers are some of the best customers around.  They are friendly; they come in and speak with you.  It’s not just here, take care of this; they look out for you and other people.

Are there any bad areas in your neighborhood?

There are.  I’d say down towards Edgewood , there is some housing [public housing] that you wish wasn’t there. I don’t think it’s probably patrolled enough.  I think some crime starts there, and then comes into other parts.  There’s still some section 8 housing that you wish was cleaned up.  The one housing project, I can’t remember the name of it, but off Whitefoord Avenue.  I wouldn’t go to it.  I turned down the wrong street once, and you are trapped in there and it’s a little scary.

Also, Bixby Apartments used to be near here [off Bixby Street], and that has been cleaned up.  New owners came in and kicked everyone out.  It’s still low-income apartment living, but they do credit and background checks.

What’s the real estate like here?

You have bungalows, old Victorians, and craftsman homes.  The newer homes that are being built, they are tearing down the old bungalows and building craftsman homes.

It’s primarily single-family homes.  You have a couple apartments and lofts.  There’s the Kirkwood Lofts, which was an old elementary school that they converted into lofts.  You have a couple duplex areas but mainly single-family homes. 

The vacant properties are primarily for sale.  I would say Kirkwood has had its share of foreclosures, but people are buying.  I’ve had a few people in real estate tell me that it’s picking up slowly.

It’s not difficult to get a property, depending on how much square footage you want.  I think someone bought a 2 bedroom, 2 bath, and it was listed for 189K, and the lot was small.  So it may go from 189k all the way up to 232k.  Before 2008, homes like that were selling for much more.  Some homes were selling for 500-600k.

I don’t think you need any tricks to come to Kirkwood.  Just know what you want and what to expect when you come here.  If you have your goal set on something that isn’t a part of Kirkwood, you won’t be happy.  If you have pets and kids it’s a great area.  If you are expecting no crime, you need to look somewhere else.  Renting again, you’ll find rentals.  Just inspect the place and know what you are getting into.

Are there any disputes or new developments happening in your neighborhood? 

There aren’t any new developments business wise.  There is Liv Fitness off Memorial Drive, and that shopping center has some vacant space.  I think Kirkwood Family Medical is there.  [There is also an issue with Kirkwood Bar and Grille and their liquor license that Joann did not mention that has been a recent issue.  For further information, see the story in East Atlanta Patch.] 

If you were forced to leave this neighborhood, what neighborhood would you move to and why?

Business wise I may go up to Brookhaven for my boarding business or Brookwood.  Personally, downtown Decatur [a small town on the eastside of Atlanta] area because it’s very friendly, and I know so many people down there.  There’s a lot to do, and it’s all walkable.  Also it’s a very bike-friendly area.

Are there neighborhoods in this city that you would never live in? What are they?

I don’t think I would live in the Highlands because that area is too over-priced.  Fulton County in general with their taxes and water issues.  I wish they would get that under control.  I think the housing market peaked out so high that you have people sitting there with houses they can’t sell or in foreclosure.

As for a general area of Fulton County, northwest I would probably avoid.

Do you have any advice for folks thinking about moving to your neighborhood?

Due diligence. Know what you want before you come here and know what’s here.  And ask around.  People are always willing to offer up their answers and opinions.  We have a community board that people ask.  Residents will always tell you what they think, so ask questions.  Ask your realtor, and if you don’t feel comfortable with that person, go to a different person.   Stop into the businesses and see what’s here.

The village section of Kirkwood has a good variety of businesses, but is there a certain type of business that isn’t here that you would like to see develop?

Again some anchor restaurants.  There’s a lot of variety; you have a gift shop [Gitche Ya Ya], vegan bakery [Dulce Vegan], jewelry person, PB&J art gallery.  Maybe a little wine shop, something that you wouldn’t find in other areas like East Atlanta.  It would have to be a very unique shop, so that people come here for it.  Something that really stands out to people.

How do you see Kirkwood developing in the next 5-10 years?

With the economy, I just see it growing.  I see people getting in here and renovating the bungalows and just selling.  I don’t see the housing market going up in price like it was 5 or 6 years ago.

Could you see it becoming like Virgina-Highland or Candler Park one day?

I would say more like Candler Park.  The businesses are smaller in Candler Park, but people go there for The Flying Biscuit and other stuff.  I can see it being a Candler Park, not necessarily Highlands.  I don’t think people living here want it to be like Virginia-Highland.

Crocker Highlands is tucked away in the hilly folds of Oakland–artists, musicians and parents alike live here. Patrick, a journalist/artist and recent Crocker Highlands transplant came from living in the hustle-and-bustle of city life in San Francisco. He is originally from Philadelphia and talks to us (along with his sparkly-eyed dog Chloe) about his appreciation for this friendly nabe that gives him some home away from home vibes and hosts some lively night spots and kid friendly appeal.

Can you describe this nabe for folks who have never been here before?

Friendly, hospitable, a bit bourgie, but also there’s a bunch of artists here, musicians. A really nice place to raise kids. It’s kid friendly and it’s still diverse.

Would you consider Crocker Highlands your ideal nabe?

Yea, because you can have the lifestyle of an adult: You can have your 9-5, water your yard/garden lifestyle and then you’re a skipping stone away from some of these great restaurants and bars. Everything is really convenient—There’s a Safeway down here, a Trader Joe’s over there… a Whole Foods. Parking is free, there’s barely any street cleaning up here, and everyone is incredibly nice—super nice. I know all my neighbors and that is the one thing different than SF. I’ve had more meaningful conversations with my neighbors here than practically all years I’ve lived in SF. And I’ve only been here a month.

Were you surprised by anything when you first moved here?

The fact that it’s sunnier, the fact that it’s warmer and the fact that there’s all these little hidden gems around.

Are there any myths or stereotypes in this nabe you’d like to dispel?

No, but the stereotype of Oakland is that it’s rough. Hard—rough around the edges. You always associate crime with Oakland, but knock on wood it hasn’t been my case at all. Everyone seems so down to earth.  I’m from Philadelphia. It’s more of like an East Coast vibe for some reason. The cost of living is so much cheaper! I have a dog, I live with my girlfriend, we have a house now, and to have the same type of place here (I’m paying 2,000/month now)–to have that kind of house in the city (even if I was in the Sunset) would be 4 (thousand). So people are less stressed [here], I think.

Is there anything about this nabe you’d want to change?

The parking on that street (below). There’s all this parking space out on the strip so people are always reversing onto traffic. but that’s about it.

Are there any other nabes in the area you’d like to live in?

Berkeley seems really accommodating, similar vibe, little more laid back. Anywhere near the lake is nice. I’ve seen so many parts of Oakland and this is just like a gem in comparison. I’m not afraid to walk my dog at 11 at night.

Pam Ledbetter is the owner of Wahoo! Grill—a local bistro that’s been in the neighborhood for 7 years.  Pam shares with us what it’s like to be a business owner here as well as what makes Oakhurst the suburban-urban dream neighborhood. 

Can you describe this neighborhood for folks that have never been here before?

Well the thing that I like about Oakhurst is the community support.  There is a lot of diversity here. There are young hip people, seniors and everything in between—families, it’s a real nice cross mix.  Because of the diversity, it is very forward thinking, so in that way it has all the benefits of being in a city, but it also has a homey, safe feel.  The police ratio per capita is very high.  There are a lot of community activities that bring people together, so everyone tends to know one another.  It has great characteristics of a small town and a large city.  Since it’s tucked away it’s been sheltered from growing too quickly; the local government does a good job of that.

How would you describe the types of people that live here?

There are a lot of creative people here.  People who work from home, and a lot of families.  There are also people who like to go out a lot.  But overall everyone is community minded and environmentally conscientious.  We support local produce and farms—that seems important to people.

Is this your ideal neighborhood?

Yes, it definitely is.  I love Oakhurst; I think it’s magnificent.  And again, for all the reasons I’ve mentioned, you know I think it’s forward thinking and accepting and really just a good mix.  I like that they allow growth and expansion but keep the integrity of historical architecture. 

Were you surprised by anything when you moved here?

The community support.  I was completely blown away by how strongly people feel about the businesses, and that’s why I think businesses are so successful…. I started adding comment cards, and it has been the best tool for me to figure out what the people in Oakhurst want—by listening. They really respond well to that.

What was the area like when you opened 7 years ago on College Avenue?  What was it like coming here as a business?

Well, there was/is a MARTA station [East Lake station] on one side and a probation office on the other side (which is no longer there).  There was not a lot of traffic on this street, and people looked at me, popped their head in and said, “You’re going to open a restaurant here?” and I said, “Yes, I am.  It will be magnificent.  All you naysayers move along.”I had been studying Oakhurst and all the traffic, and what types of people were moving into Oakhurst.  After seeing what types of restaurants were already here, I discovered that there weren’t really any nice, sit-down restaurants.

I looked at other areas—Morningside near Smith’s Olde Bar, Virginia-Highland because that was the area I lived in before coming here.  But I really wanted the opportunity to be on the cutting edge of a neighborhood and be a part of turning it around.  Being on College Avenue, I think I have been a part of doing that.

You mention Virginia-Highland, do you think Oakhurst is becoming the next Virginia-Highland? 

I think so.  Oakhurst Village would need some expansion, especially on College Avenue.  Getting some retail around here would really help because there is still a lot of room for growth.  I moved to Virginia-Highland in 1988, and there were these gorgeous old homes, and you could get them for a song.  People moved out to the suburbs, and I think that is some of what happened here [Oakhurst].

There were these big mansions in Virginia-Highland, but then people were still selling crack on the street corners.  That’s why I loved it; I was watching it transform, and that’s why I love Oakhurst.  I love watching the gentrification happen, and it’s mainly happening on the business end.  The residential side of Oakhurst is very established.

What’s your favorite part about this neighborhood?

I love the location and these great little pockets of nearby neighborhoods—Kirkwood and Reynoldstown.  I love the architecture too… the craftsman style is really pretty.  They’ve done a good job of not mowing down and over-landscaping it.

Is there anything about this neighborhood that you’d like to change? 

I’d like more retail.  I’d like to give people more reasons to come here.  They’ve definitely done that with reasons to move here.  I’d like to draw these other neighborhoods into Oakhurst where people come to shop, go to dinner, and then go to a show.  I think that’s starting to happen further down College Avenue near where PushPush Theatre is.  There’s some retail stuff, restaurants, and bars.

In order to do this they need to make the sidewalks wider; I think that will make it easier to walk around.

Also, I’d like easier access to public transit.  I know a cable car has been talked about, and I would love to see that because I think that is what every area of this entire city is missing.

What’s the real estate like here? 

There are more homes than apartments.  I don’t really know much about what is going on in the real estate scene.  There are usually more homes to buy than rent, but with the economy I think there are a few more rentals, but mainly it’s stuff for sale.  The price range is on the higher side, but I think there are still some good deals.  Also, the homes here retain their value really well, and there are great schools, so it’s sought after.  

Are there any disputes or new developments happening in your  neighborhood? 

There’s not really any disputes.  I think there is debate on how to develop areas in Oakhurst.  There is some undeveloped retail space, and there is discussion on what it should be, whether it’s a grocery store or something else.

If you were forced to leave this neighborhood, what neighborhood would you move to and why?

I love Decatur [a small city on the eastern side of Atlanta], so maybe the Decatur square area.  I would pick it because the way the government runs the city and community support and loyalty there.  The government and the community are very loyal; it’s like an urban Mayberry.

Are there neighborhoods in this city that you would never live in? What are they?

I wouldn’t live in the suburbs.  You couldn’t pay me to live there.  I love the city feeling.  So anywhere north of Midtown… like Buckhead and north of that.  It’s too crowded, too slick, too developed.

Are there any hidden secrets about Oakhurst?

It itself is a hidden gem.  It may be unclear to some people how easily accessible it is, transportation wise.  Getting Downtown is pretty much a straight shot; there’s just one turn.

Oakhurst has many festivals.  What is one of your favorites and why?

I love the Jazz festival that they have every Spring and Fall [April-May and September-October].  I love the music and supporting local talent.  It’s at the Solarium, and it’s free.  Everyone comes out to it, and it’s like a church picnic.  I love all the festivals; they do so many cool things.

A little about Wahoo! Grill—Wahoo!  is a casual European-influenced neighborhood bistro with elegant and warm dining.  Check them out over the holidays as there are some cool happenings including Brunch with Santa on December 10^th from 10AM-Noon. Reservations are strongly recommended.  Please call 404.373.3331 to make one today!

 

“I wouldn’t hang out around there” is a common phrase you may hear from someone who knew East Lake 10-15 years ago.  Many Atlanta residents remember East Lake as a neighborhood filled with crime and poverty.  Nowadays, you wouldn’t recognize it.

During the mid-nineties, the East Lake Foundation was established by the Cousins family to help revitalize the neighborhood.  The East Lake Meadows, a housing project built in the 1970s, was demolished and the Villages of East Lake was erected in its place.  Today you’ll find a majestic (and I actually mean that) golf course with views of Downtown, surrounded by a mixture of a planned communities and historic homes. 

I’m a resident too, but I can’t interview myself; that would get a little weird.  

In my search for someone who could give me an in-depth look at East Lake, I needed someone with strong ties to the development, someone who practices what they preach and actually lives here.  

Brittany Molinaro hasn’t just been an East Lake resident for 8 years; she’s also an employee of the East Lake Foundation—an organization that was developed to give this community a shining future.  Through public and private partnerships, the Foundation offers several programs, from affordable housing to education opportunities. That coupled with a return to city-living (several suburbanites have made a return to the city, making in-town living more popular than it has been in almost a century), makes East Lake an up-and-coming neighborhood you’ll want to know more about.

Can you describe East Lake for folks that have never been here before? 

I would describe East Lake as a neighborhood that has everything you are looking for when you are looking for in-town living.  It’s located about 4 miles from Downtown; we are conveniently located to the highway [I-20], so it is extremely easy to get someplace that you want.  We are about 5 minutes, if that, from Decatur [a small city on the eastern side of Atlanta].

East Lake has one of the top performing schools in the Atlanta school system [Charles R. Drew Charter School], and the residents have first priority to attend.  It’s a K-8 facility.  We have a state-of-the-art YMCA.  We have one of the top 10 short golf courses in the U.S. [Charlie Yates Golf Course], and we are host to the TOUR Championship by Coca-Cola —the super bowl of golf.

How about the vibe?  What sense do you get living here?

When I think of East Lake, I think of a very neighborly vibe.  I grew up in Sandy Springs, which is a suburb of Atlanta, which was fabulous.  But I did not live in a neighborhood where I could walk on sidewalks; I didn’t know my neighbors.  You needed a car to get everywhere.

Here in East Lake, we are conveniently located near the Kirkwood and Oakhurst business districts.  We have a very engaged community association [East Lake Neighbors Community Association].  There’s a farmers market [East Lake Farmers Market].  I would say it’s very close-knit neighborhood, which I think is very unique for an urban environment.

How would you describe the types of people that live here?

I think it’s a mix of long-term residents, meaning people who have lived here for 40 plus years, as well as young professionals between 25 and 35.  I wouldn’t describe it as a predominantly family neighborhood, although I think that’s a natural progression of the demographics that live here.  I also find it very racially and economically diverse.

With so much diversity, do you think everyone gets a long pretty well, or does there seem to be a division?

Definitely, I think everyone gets along pretty well.  East Lake is a part of a larger effort that has happened here in Atlanta.  It was spearheaded by the East Lake Foundation.  About 16 years ago, East Lake was home to a public housing project [East Lake Meadows] that was considered one of the worst concentrations of violence and poverty in the U.S.  The Foundation was formed in 1995 to revitalize the community.  I mention that because you hear a lot about gentrification in in-town neighborhoods, and what makes this neighborhood so unique is the Foundation was really formed to provide resources to the residents to help them out of poverty.

I think these are the building blocks of any thriving mixed-income neighborhood.  That includes safe and affordable housing; cradle to college education opportunities; community wellness, and that is what makes East Lake so cohesive and collaborative.  It’s not a real estate development where people were pushed out of the area; it was a redevelopment, so they have first priority.  It was these resources that actually attracted people with choice.

Is this your ideal neighborhood? Why or why not?

Yes!  I’m a native Atlantan, and like I said I came from Sandy Springs (a suburb of Atlanta).  We decided to move here mainly because we knew others who lived here, and we wanted to live in-town.  As I started to work at the Foundation, I realized what a fantastic community this was and what it had to offer.  Not just because of the impact of the programs going on here, but as a resident.  Everything I need is within a 2-mile radius.

We came here and bought a starter-home, and we thought we’d be there a couple of years and then move on to something else.  As we started to weigh those options and look at other neighborhoods, I couldn’t find an in-town neighborhood that offered everything East Lake does, especially the social interactions.  I know all my neighbors, and over time they have become some of my best friends.  We decided to build a home here and be here long term.

Are there any myths or stereotypes about your nabe you’d like to dispel?

Yes, when people think of East Lake, they think of East Lake Meadows.  They think of the community that existed over 15 years ago.  Because the housing project was so notorious for its crime rate and drug trafficking, people still think of this as an unsafe neighborhood.  Crime statistics now show that we have very little violent crime, and our rate is below more affluent neighborhoods.  Across the board, it’s a very safe place to live, especially near Downtown.  Crimes tend to be petty crimes, but if you are smart about what you do, you will be ok.

Were you surprised by anything when you moved here?

One of the things I was surprised about was how connected I got with my neighbors.  In fact, fast-forward 8 years, all of my best friends are East Lake residents.  When I moved here that’s not what I was looking for.  I just wanted a cute affordable house that was near the things I like, and what I found—which is why I ended up building a house here—was that there is such a strong neighborly feel.

What’s your favorite part about East Lake?

Drew Charter School, for a couple of different reasons.  As an employee of the East Lake Foundation, I think the school is a perfect example of what can happen when public and private partners pool their resources.  Drew went from one of the lowest performing schools to one of the top schools in APS (Atlanta Public Schools).  It competes with top performing schools, and that is still with 78% of the student population qualifying for free or reduced lunch.  Another thing is that Drew is a school that people with choice are choosing to send their kids to, and for me that speaks volumes.  It shows that neighbors are interacting when it comes to their kids, and it’s also a true neighborhood school—most people who send their kids there live within a 2-mile radius of it.

Is there anything about East Lake that you’d like to change? 

I would like to see more volunteer participation from residents that don’t have kids that are taking advantage of all the programs—First-Tee [a World Golf Foundation initiative dedicated to helping children develop integrity and character through golf], the school, things like that.  I think there are new avenues that allow them to do that—the East Lake Community Learning Garden, the East Lake Farmers Market.  There’s a lot of ways for people in the neighborhood to become involved.  I would like to see that continue to grow.  It’s not so much that those people are disinterested; it’s that they are new to the community and don’t know about them, so I would like to see participation in these programs.

Are there any bad areas in East Lake? If not, which street/block would you not want to live on?

I think there are one or two streets that you would want to be more on-guard after dark, and this exists with any neighborhood.  It would really be in areas where there is access to major highways, so South Candler Road and Glenwood Avenue.  There is a lot of in-and-out activity, but it’s not a major concern.  5 years ago, I would say without a doubt that it was a concern, and now it doesn’t jump out to me as a concern.

What’s the real estate like here?

It’s primarily single-family homes, and mainly for-sale.  Although there are some rentals because of the economy, I’ve seen a lot of for-sale signs.  We are in a unique position because the homes here are still fairly affordable for the location.  When you start to get into the more renovated homes, the offerings get a little bit higher and leaner on what your choices are.

There are apartments too.  The Villages of East Lake [apartment community] has units that range in market rate.  I will tell you that they have a high-occupancy rate, again because East Lake residents have first priority to community partners and programs such as Drew Charter School, the First Tee of East Lake, and CREW Teens .

What about any tricks or advice for looking for a home?

Well, there are a lot of offerings, so I would look around.  If you can find an opportunity to get into East Lake, I would say do it.  Because I think with the way that the school is going, the businesses, farmers market, and the development potential at the corners of 2^nd Avenue and Hosea Williams Drive, it’s a good investment.  With the Foundation driving a lot of the programs and offerings that are available to all residents, this will continue to be a good investment.

Also, make sure when you are looking at East Lake; you are looking at East Lake.  We are right on the border of city of Atlanta, Decatur and unincorporated DeKalb, so a lot of homes are marketed as Atlanta 30317.  For example, the south side of Glenwood Avenue is not East Lake.  You aren’t in the priority zones (East Lake residents have first priority to Drew Charter School).  The boundary lines can be confusing. 

Are there any disputes or new developments happening in East Lake?

There isn’t an East Lake dispute that I know of, but there is a general issue going on for all Atlanta, or in-town Atlanta residents, and that’s the redistricting of APS schools.  Good news is that doesn’t affect Drew Charter School.

If you were forced to leave East Lake, what neighborhood would you move to and why?

What are the neighborhoods that are closest to where East Lake is?  I’m not just saying that; I love this neighborhood so much that I would want to be somewhere that’s very similar like Kirkwood or Oakhurst. 

Are there neighborhoods in this city that you would never live in? What are they?

We chose in-town living, so we wouldn’t move to any place that’s outside of that; like the northern suburbs of Atlanta.  Everything that we like to do—music, restaurants, our friends, access to the city, is all here.  I wouldn’t want to get away from that.

How is this neighborhood different from a similar neighborhood, like Kirkwood? 

I would say Kirkwood is a neighborhood that is similar in demographics to East Lake.  They have a designated business district, which right now is the differing factor.  I think that is coming for East Lake, but it doesn’t exist now.  

Do you have any advice for folks thinking about moving to East Lake? 

When you come to East Lake, check out the East Lake Foundation, and take a tour of the school, YMCA, First Tee, and Early Learning Academy, so you are fully aware of all the programs East Lake has to offer.   It will also help them get involved in what’s going on here.

Right now I know East Lake doesn’t have a square or central gathering place for businesses.  If you had a say in developing a commercial district, what would you do?  Where would it go? 

I’m very happy to tell you that what would be East Lake’s business/retail district, 2^nd Avenue and Hosea Williams, is owned by a company that is committed to developing those four corners in a manner that is consistent with what we want in the neighborhood.

I would like to see mixed independent properties—an upscale restaurant, gift shop.  I would like to see the farmers market idea mixed into a store, selling those products during the week.  It would be nice to have a dry-cleaners there, things that make living more convenient.  Ideally it would be great for them to be independently owned stores and restaurants

What do you think East Lake will look like in the next 5-10 years?

I think it’s going to be the most popular neighborhood in Atlanta.  When you look at what makes people move to a neighborhood, it’s either a great school or great housing.  East Lake has both.  We also have every other thing that people would want when they come to a neighborhood—geographically desirable, grocery store, recreation, banks, things like that.

An aesthetician and resident of Merritt for about 2 ½ years, Nicole tells us about everything diverse Merritt has to offer: from lake access, to great restaurants, to terrifying potholes.

Can you describe this neighborhood for folks that have never been here before?

Umm, it’s a pretty ethnically diverse neighborhood since this is sort of the border of Chinatown. There are various ethnic backgrounds. You also have some Latin influence as well as Thai and Vietnamese. If you go around the Lake a little bit more it gets less ethnic. All types of people live here really: Hipster families, older people; Asian families.

Is this your ideal neighborhood?

As far as Oakland goes, this is ideal. The only other place in Oakland I’d want to live is by Grand Lake by the theatre. But I still want to stay around the lake because I like being really close to Lake Merritt Bart which is about half a mile from where I live and only 15 minutes to get to the city.  For people who have cars, the freeway is close by. There are some really cool bars too.

Are there any myths about this neighborhood you’d like to dispel?

Well, I think that depends on the person. I’ve had some people tell me this area is dangerous. There used to be problems with prostitution.  But it’s no longer an issue. Now a lot more “hip” people live here: 20-somethings riding around the lake. This area attracts a lot of athletic types because it’s pleasant to run. It is almost exactly 5K around.

Did anything surprise you about Merritt when you moved here?

Considering I moved here from Sacramento and had been hearing bad things about Oakland, it’s a lot nicer than I thought it was going to be. As I’ve lived here, it’s gotten nicer and nicer—construction has been going on for a long time near E.12^th as well as a lot of Lake beautification.

What’s your favorite part about this neighborhood?

I like that everything is within walking distance. I don’t have a car anymore so the fact that I can walk to the grocery store or walk to various restaurants or walk to cool bars to hang out is nice. I can ride my bike, but I don’t necessarily have to, which I love. I don’t know that I would get that living anywhere I can think of in SF or Oakland.

Are there any bad areas in this neighborhood?

International itself can be a little sketchy at night. But it’s not too bad. It’s pretty residential and if you keep an eye out on what’s around you, it’s fine. Most of the homeless here are nice—they want to chat with you.

What’s the real estate like here? 

The thing I remembered when looking for apartments here is the rent was reasonable but the deposits were pretty high. The reason I moved into this building is because there was a special on the deposit, and this particular high rise has a laundry room, it has covered parking, security guard at night, keyed electronic entry, and a gym.  A lot of the smaller apartments near the lake haven’t been remodeled in quite some time, so they have some really cool architecture.  The other thing I love about this building is it was built in 1975 so it survived the Loma Prieta earthquake. This one is solid concrete.

Is there anything new going on in Merritt?

I was under the impression they are putting a new park in near E 12^th which I’m looking forward to. I also know there is a local project to beautify the Cleveland Cascade which apparently used to be a water fountain that goes up the entire side of the hill of Lakeshore between here and Grand. It looks like it’s going to be really pretty when it’s done. The Cleveland Cascade is a huge staircase people run up and down here.

The other thing is there is an elementary school right here—they’re putting in another attachment to the school and expanding it.  I’m sure it’s convenient for people who live in this building since there are a lot of kids they can go right down and walk to school.

If you were forced to leave Merritt, where would you live?

In an ideal world where I was making the ideal amount of money, I’d move to the Mission, mostly because I’m young and single and there’s a lot of nightlife there. There are a couple buildings in Oakland that I’d want to live in like—like a green apartment building called Uptown.

Do you have any advice for people moving to Merritt?

I like riding my bike around except for the potholes. The potholes are potholes of doom. They are so deep. If you were riding your bike around this neighborhood and you’re not paying attention, you could get thrown or taco a rim. I’ve definitely heard people misjudge the depth of potholes and scrape their rims really badly. The main thing I’ve found with cycling here is people not paying attention when they open their car doors. So you really need to pay attention so you don’t get car-doored. People are definitely more aware now though of people on bikes.

Are there any great establishments here?

The Farmer’s Market under 580 on Saturday mornings by Lake Park is possibly the best Farmers Market I’ve ever been to. The Heart and Dagger saloon—it’s kind of got a dive-y vibe but
it’s clean, the bartenders area really nice and has a fantastic patio. Ruby Room—drinks are
cheap and strong and the jukebox is really good. Mijori on Grand is good. Flavors of India
on Lakeshore is good. The Chinese restaurant across from here is called Happy Valley on 4th
Ave: Their dim sum is amazing and really cheap. It’s one of those places you walk in and it’s all
big Chinese families–so good. The Merritt Bakery is great. It’s sort of fancy greasy spoon but
higher quality. Their chicken fried steak is amazing. Boot and Shoe service on Grand is swanky
pizza. The burger place Quik Way is owned by new people and it’s so good now.

Do you have any complaints about Merritt?

My biggest problem with this nabe and Oakland in general is there isn’t a Target anywhere nearby. Big convenient style places—there aren’t any of those here. If I have to go to Michael’s, I’d have to go all the way to San Leandro. Considering what I do for a living, there are no beauty supply stores either.

A local resident for two years, Lou Linzie gives us a peek into what life is like in East Atlanta and shares tips from avoiding crime, to good eats, to music venues.

How long have you lived here? 

I’ve lived in East Atlanta for about 2 years.  Before that I was going to grad school in Vermont for a year, and then before that I lived in various parts of Atlanta—Castleberry Hill, Midtown, and then northern Atlanta.

Can you describe this neighborhood for folks that have never been here before?

I like East Atlanta because it’s a little bit gritty; it’s got a lot of independent shops and it’s a place where new businesses can open.  There’s a sweet downtown area with restaurants and shops that have been there for a long time.  I started coming down here 8-10 years ago, and the shops that were around at that time are still here, which says a lot about the area.

East Atlanta is a great place for dive bars, and it has some famous music venues [referring to EARL (East Atlanta Restaurant and Lounge), which features rising indie bands].  I can definitely say that it’s well balanced socio-economically—some people have good financial status and then some people have no home.  I think the fact that everyone is able to get along speaks a lot to the community-oriented vibe that exists here.

There is a lot of crime, and I wouldn’t advise leaving things in your car or be out late at night or walking through the streets drunk.  Recently I’ve heard some stories of people getting held up.

How would you describe the types of people that live here?

Umm. I think that there is a huge range, but on a small level it’s a bit like the eastside of New York City where there are a lot of hipsters and shops that cater to that lifestyle.  There’s a great tattoo parlor called Thirteen Roses, and of course with the indie rock venues it adds to the hipster vibe.  I think it makes for a nice eclectic feel.

Is this your ideal neighborhood?

You know my ideal neighborhood changes as I get older.  I’d say 5 or 6 years ago, yes it was my ideal neighborhood minus the crime.  There are still parts of East Atlanta that are my ideal neighborhood.  Having a downtown walking area, where you can have a cup of coffee or lunch or go shopping where you don’t have to get in a car is pretty ideal.  That mixed with a lower crime rate would be really ideal. 

Are there any myths or stereotypes about your nabe you’d like to dispel?

I keep sitting here talking about the crime, but the truth is I’ve never personally experienced any.  I think if you are smart, don’t leave valuables in your car, don’t walk around drunk late at night, don’t draw attention to yourself, you will be ok.  I think quite honestly, East Atlanta is not as dangerous as people make it out to be.  Now there is some crime that you hear about, but if you’re smart you can avoid it.  A great word for it is “gritty.” 

Were you surprised by anything when you moved here?

Well, I think one of the cool things about the neighborhood that you wouldn’t know right away is that they have a farmers market [East Atlanta Village Farmers Market].  They have really high quality local food, and they have an EBT program [government food assistance program] that doubles EBT dollars, making food more affordable for lower income individuals. 

Also the quality of the food in the restaurants…  Holy Taco (on Glenwood Avenue) has really high quality food, and you may not expect that in a neighborhood that has a gritty quality to it.  You may expect bar food here, but you will be surprised by the freshness and unique quality to it.

What’s your favorite part about this neighborhood? 

The downtown shops.  It’s a really great central location.  East Atlanta is close to a lot of in-town neighborhoods—Kirkwood, East Lake, Oakhurst, 10 minutes from Poncey-Highland.  These areas have a lot of great restaurants.  You don’t have to go to Buckhead to get great food.

Is there anything about this neighborhood that you’d like to change?  

I love the diversity of it; I think that’s one of its strengths.  You know there’s a bar called Mary’s, which is a long-standing gay/lesbian establishment.  There are shops geared towards a wide variety of people.  I still worry though about the crime and how it affects the property values.

What’s the best part of your neighborhood to live in?

The fact that it’s been able to maintain the diversity over the years.  It’s still a great place to see a band at the EARL; they have 80s night at the Eastside Lounge.  They’ve got pretty good variety of things going on.

Are there any bad areas in your neighborhood? If not, which street/block would you not want to live on? 

I think there’s quite a few.  I’m not so clear on them, but I believe if you go one block in a perimeter around the downtown area, it’s kind of rough.  You want to stay in a central area.  About 10 years ago there was a report of a crack-house off Metropolitan Ave.  I don’t know if it’s still there.  I don’t hang out there a lot anymore—I use to have friends who lived across from it.  Really, outside of the central area, I’m not sure how it is now.

However, if you are someone who forms relationships with your neighbors and is aware of what’s going on, it’s much less dangerous than for someone who just comes and goes or slips in for the night to go to a bar, and then walks to their car drunk with their valuables on them and gets mugged.  If you are aware of your surroundings, you are much less likely to become a victim of violent or petty crime.

What’s the real estate like here?

It’s mostly homes, but there are some apartment complexes.  I’m a renter, so I don’t know a lot about buying here or property value, but renting is quite affordable.  There’s a fair amount of rental properties.  If you are looking for a higher level of quality, the price is definitely going to increase.  If you’re willing to take something that has been around for a while, there’s a lot of houses here like that.  It’s much more affordable than say, Virginia Highland.  Also, it’s on the rise, so it’s a good place to invest in.

For renting tricks, I use Craigslist.  What I usually do is I pick a range that’s slightly above my price range and then below it, and I look at as many places in that range.  When I find a place that compares well to the price ranges I looked at, I know I got a good deal.  You do have to weed out the crazies.  Just look for tell tale signs, things they are picky about.  If they are relaxed, interested in keeping up appearances of the place, and if they are interested in you being a good tenant, then they will most likely be a good landlord.

Are there any disputes or new developments happening in your neighborhood? 

There is a cell phone tower that T-Mobile is trying to put up at 469 Metropolitan Place.  I saw some signs protesting it in people’s yard.  I’ve gone to events a couple of times, the Candler Park festival and the East Atlanta Strut, and there was bad cell phone reception.  It makes me wonder if there is some controversy because some people may want it while others don’t.

If you were forced to leave this neighborhood, what neighborhood would you move to and why?

I would try to stay in the same area, so neighborhoods in the eastern side of Atlanta like East Lake, Oakhurst, Kirkwood.  If I had the money, I would live in Oakhurst.  You still have that downtown area, but the crime is much lower.  It would also be a nice place to settle down, and it’s great for families.  Not that I’m about to have a family or anything, but one day I may want that.  I also feel like I could really trust my neighbors there and not have to worry about crime.  It would be nice to live in a place where I don’t have to make sure everything is locked and have a security system.  Also, the property values are more secure.  You may pay higher taxes, but property values are better and it’s just a desirable place to be.

Are there neighborhoods in this city that you would never live in? What are they?

There’s a couple places that I looked at when I moved back to Atlanta.  I took a job near the Atlanta airport [southwestern part of the city], and I looked at East Point.  I was really shocked at the crime rate.  While there is a lot of wonderful amount of diversity, I just couldn’t live there.  At the time, when I was looking, there was a report of two women whose apartment door was kicked in, and they were both raped at gunpoint.  I don’t want to have to worry about that happening to me.

I’ve lived in Castleberry Hill, and felt comfortable there, but as you slip across Northside Drive into Vine City and English Avenue, those are also places I wouldn’t feel comfortable living in.

Funny enough though, I wouldn’t want to live in Buckhead.  It’s a very beautiful area, very affluent, and it’s close to workplaces in downtown with a lot of new developments, so a very desirable place to live.  However, I like Atlanta’s gritty side.  I enjoy dive bars and restaurants that aren’t sparkling, but still have great food.  It’s an aesthetic and a part of Atlanta I would miss.  Buckhead is very commercial and it feels like there’s money everywhere, which gives it a phony feeling. You know people move from the suburbs to Buckhead to get away from the suburban feeling, and they actually end up bringing the suburban feeling with them.  You still retain a big portion of the clean, suburban, everything in its place, everyone looks the same type of vibe.  It also makes me feel like I have to keep up with the Joneses.

How is this neighborhood different from other neighborhoods that are similar to it?

It’s younger, not necessarily in age but in spirit.  There are people who have lived here for years, in their second stage of life (40s) and still are just as much a part of that youthful vibe.  I think it’s just that it’s always moving, even though some of the places have been there for a long time, they still keep new, fresh stuff coming in.  The EARL for instance has a lot of new, upcoming bands, but on the other hand it has maintained its original state—I don’t think it’s been remodeled in a long time.  East Atlanta pushes towards that alternative lifestyle.

It reminds me in some ways of Little Five Points.   Little Five is really well known inside and outside Atlanta, so I feel like it’s sometimes a little bit stuck in being this suburban destination into the city.  East Atlanta is a little less well known, so it has more in-town people coming to it, frequenting it.  It’s like the in-town Little 5, and Little 5 is the suburban version of East Atlanta.  Another place that it’s also like is the East Village in NYC, except it doesn’t have all the pretentiousness.

Do you have any advice for folks thinking about moving to your neighborhood?

Yes, when you pick out your home, try and drive-by and hang out at different times of the day to see how it feels.  Spend some time asking locals about where you are looking to buy; spend time in the local businesses.  

East Atlanta definitely has some unique businesses and restaurants, what is one of your favorites and why?

I love Dr. Karen Jordan at the East Atlanta Animal Clinic.  They are very professional and have taken really good care of us.  I also really like Holy Taco.  I recommend the shrimp, goat, and beef tongue tacos.  Midway is also very popular and good for sport watching that doesn’t get too crowded like Taco Mac or Wild Wings. 

With so much growth recently, it seems like East Atlanta could be a new hot place to live.  How do you see East Atlanta in the next 5 years?

Well we’ve all been held back by the housing crash.  I don’t know too much about property prices because I’m not a homeowner, but I can see it taking a turn upwards, kind of like the Poncey-Highland area.  I think too, if the neighbors are able to continue to join forces to improve the area, I don’t see why it won’t see an up-tick in the coming years.  I would also like to see the crime change, and it will need to change before property values will rise.  It’s a chicken or the egg situation though.  Its location too off Moreland Ave and I-20 is a rough area; I’ve seen a few accidents there.  However, that roughness may be why it’s able to keep its edge.

Oh and one thing I saw that made me think the area is getting better is Delia’s Chicken Sausage Stand off Moreland Avenue.  It has really high quality food, and it use to be a food truck.  Now it’s a walkup stand.  I think when you start to see more local businesses take hold off Moreland, that’s a good sign.  Local businesses tend to have more of a stake in their community than chains do, since the success of their community is directly tied to the success of their business.

With a couple years under her belt as an Old Fourth Warder, Stephanie Kohler has a thing or two to say about why O4W is a rising star among in-town Atlanta neighborhoods.

How long have you lived here?

I’ve been in this specific apartment for a year, almost a year and a half.  Before that I lived up the street for a year, so in total 2 ½ years.  And before that I lived in Midtown for a couple years, and then in the Emory area for a couple years.

Can you describe this neighborhood for folks that have never been here before?

I would say it’s definitely in transition.  Some of my friends say, “Oh my God!  How could you live there?!  It’s dangerous, and it kind of has a sketchy reputation,” but I don’t feel any less safe here than anywhere else.  I see plenty of sketchy behavior.  Anything you could possibly want is for sale on Boulevard [a main street in Old Fourth Ward].  I see some of the same shady people. They are out dumpster diving or having their transactions, and we just leave each other alone.  It’s not a big deal.  I don’t walk around super late alone.  I’ve had a few sketchy encounters, but nothing dangerous happened.

It’s ironic though.  I left Midtown because the crime rate was so out of control.  People were having their homes broken into in the middle of the day.  I had a neighbor that got held up by gunpoint by the same guy twice.  I was living on 10^thAvenue and Piedmont Avenue, right in the center of it all, plenty of foot traffic, and people were still getting mugged etc.  And this was before the economy tanked, and it got even worse.  So the irony is that I got here [Old Fourth Ward], and I felt safer.  Midtown is near a lot of bars, people have money, and they get tipsy, and then get mugged.  Now I’m in Old Fourth Ward, and it’s totally chill.

How would you describe the types of people that live here?

It seems pretty diverse.  I don’t see a lot of children here, but I do see all ages of adults.  There are some kids, but it’s pretty rare.  It’s mainly a Caucasian and African American mix here.

Is this your ideal neighborhood? Why or why not?

In a lot of ways, O4W is my ideal neighborhood.  It’s way cheaper than other areas.  My ideal neighborhood, if I had endless amounts of money, would be Inman Park.  Because it’s really close to Sevananda [a natural foods market]; there’s live music.  It’s got all this great culture, and it’s a little closer to MARTA and other neighborhoods.  But that said, for the money, and where I am financially, it’s not worth it.  O4W has a lot of the same stuff, but it costs less.  For the value and central location [only 5 minutes from Downtown and near several in-town neighborhoods], it’s ideal.  It’s near pretty much everything you need.

Are there any myths or stereotypes about O4W that you’d like to dispel?

I think just the idea that it’s full of criminals, and you’re on the brink of getting mugged at any moment.  And I don’t know how widespread that myth is now because I feel like with the park [O4W Park] and the BeltLine, the impression I’ve gotten is that when O4W is in the news now it’s about positive things like the park and not crime like it use to be. I think those projects have helped it a lot.  Another problem too is when people think of Old Fourth Ward, they think of Boulevard [known for drug activity and prostitution], which I totally get.  I wouldn’t want to walk there.  But there’s such a diversity within a small area that you walk a few blocks and it goes from sketchy to areas that are totally safe to be in.

Were you surprised by anything when you moved here?  You said earlier that when you moved away from Midtown you felt safer here, and that seems like a surprise.

I wouldn’t say that I was surprised by it, because I did specifically seek out O4W.  I scoped it out and talked to people who lived in the area and tried to get a sense of what it is like.  A few years ago too, I did think, “Oh Old Fourth Ward… I don’t know about that,” but I really wanted to be in a convenient location.  Nothing else really jumps out to me as a surprise.

The other difference is living in Midtown, I felt invisible.  When I moved here all these men would say stuff to me, and it felt weird.  Then I realized they were straight.  I had been living in Midtown, and there were all these gay men everywhere.  I was living next to Blake’s [a gay nightclub], so when I was around no one would pay attention.  I just got sort of used to it like, ‘oh no one says anything to me.’  But that has nothing to do with O4W; you could go anywhere in Atlanta, and it would have less gay people than Midtown.

What’s your favorite part about this neighborhood?

I would say the BeltLine and the park [Old Fourth Ward Park].  It’s a great place to walk through/ cut through.

Is there anything about this neighborhood that you’d like to change? 

I think it would be nice if there could be a little more green space and places to walk around.  There’s also a huge lot under construction near the Masquerade [a nearby music venue], and then where the restaurant 4th and Swift is, by Glen Iris and North Avenue, kind of behind that area is this massive empty warehouse.  It would be great, and I think in general it’s happening, for it to be converted to a smart, mixed-use space.  There are tons of people who would use it/inhabit it.  I think it betters the neighborhood to have that type of development.

Are there any bad areas in your neighborhood? If not, which street/block would you not want to live on?

Boulevard SE.  Most people say that, and it’s pretty clear not to go there.  Also, just up the street [Boulevard Place] there are couple sketchy houses, but then midway down the street it’s a different place.  It’s such an Atlanta thing.  I haven’t lived in a lot of other cities, but it’s amazing to me the proximity of disparity.  There can be affluent, high-end developments, and across the street is a dump.

The good thing about this neighborhood is you can easily pick out where you shouldn’t go.  If it looks sketchy, odds are that it is.  It’s pretty apparent that you shouldn’t be there.  Also, I think the crime is getting condensed into a smaller area, so it’s getting better.

What’s the real estate like here? 

I’ve seen a lot of stuff for sale.  There are also a lot of houses being renovated and some new construction.  It’s cool because there is a mix of price ranges.  The new apartment development up the street [Glen Iris] is much more expensive than my place because it has amenities.   It’s great to have variety.  When I lived in Midtown, all the prices seemed pretty much the same.  Pretty much anyone can find something they can afford here.

As far as finding housing, in Atlanta in general it’s pretty easy to find housing.  I also recommend going to the local businesses and talking to neighbors to see what it’s like to live here.  See what they would recommend.

Are there any disputes or new developments happening in your neighborhood?  Can you tell me a little about the Beltline park?  Your impressions of how it’s affected the neighborhood?

I don’t get a sense that anyone is upset about anything.  When the BeltLine Park was first opening, the mayor’s office put flyers in people’s mailboxes advertising it, and there was an opening day ceremony, so I feel like they’ve done a lot to keep people in the neighborhood involved and a part of the project.  There’s been local art, and even a cool swing made by locals in the O4W Park.

Also as far as safety and visibility, when there is more foot-traffic it tends to lead to less crime.  There are more people around now that the park is here, and it also encourages more people to hang out [here].  You see [other] people walking, running, biking, and [you] want to do it too.

If you were forced to leave this neighborhood, what neighborhood would you move to and why?

Probably Inman Park.  I like Candler Park a lot too, but it’s a little bit too far.  In Atlanta, two miles can add 20-30 minutes to your commute, depending upon the time of day.  O4W is nice because it is very centrally located.  It’s easy to get to most places from here.

Are there neighborhoods in this city that you would never live in? What are they?

I wouldn’t want to live in Midtown again.  I’m not into the party scene.  I get why other people love it, but it’s just not for me.  Especially since it’s so expensive.  Also, East Atlanta and Virginia-Highland.  East Atlanta has a big bar scene, and safety is an issue too.  The physical location is tough too.  If you have to get anywhere, it’s a pretty long commute compared to O4W.  The accessibility here is amazing.

As far as Virginia-Highland, it’s a little more expensive and tough to get around.  It has a big bar scene too, which isn’t what I’m looking for.  I can totally see the appeal of those neighborhoods.  I would never recommend against someone living there; it’s just not for me.

How is this neighborhood different from a neighborhood that’s similar to it, like East Atlanta? 

I would say East Atlanta is similar to O4W as far as being diverse socio-economically, but its nightlife is centrally located whereas in O4W there are more small pockets of stuff but not a square/common area.  You have to seek out things to do more than in East Atlanta.  O4W is not an obvious concentrated cool spot to go to.  You go to East Atlanta, and there’s a coffee shop, tattoo parlor, bars, music venues, and you can see them all from Glenwood Avenue and Flat Shoals Road.  You have to do more exploring here.  One area here won’t necessarily bring you into proximity to other establishments.

Do you have any advice for folks thinking about moving to your neighborhood?

Just consider the little details—how close are you to the highway or how close are you to an area that you are nervous about.  Find out what’s around, dig and see what is walking distance from you.  There’s a ton of living options and some may not be that apparent, so do some digging and see what you can find.

I know O4W has some unique places to eat.  What are some of your favorites and why?

I’m a big fan of Highland Bakery.  It’s not that expensive, and it has a really broad menu, so it’s an easy place to take anyone.  I’m vegetarian, and there are plenty of restaurants in Atlanta that have just one vegetarian option.  There’s a heavy meat focus in Atlanta, and Highland Bakery is an easy place with a couple of choices.  Definitely though, don’t go at certain times like Saturday and Sunday mornings because the wait is long, but during the week it’s easy to get a table.

What is a hidden secret of O4W that most people don’t know about that you think is cool?

I don’t know.  I feel like everyone knows about the park, the BeltLine, and the skate park [Foundation Skate Park].  I think for me what I like about it is there are a lot of little unexpected things.  There will be little pockets of cool street art, and the vibe is mixed.  O4W lets you do your own thing, and I’ve never felt like I don’t fit in.  Everyone is really laid back here.

Whether you’re moving or travelling, exploring new places is always an exciting adventure. The smells, sounds, and sights we encounter in unfamiliar neighborhoods create an almost childlike sense of discovery.

However, wander around unfamiliar streets long enough, and you begin to wonder what an area is really all about.

What types of people live here? What do the locals say about their neighborhood? What is the true character of the streets surrounding you RIGHT NOW?

With the launch of NabeWise’s newly redesigned mobile site, you can now feel like a local in any new place: the full picture of the neighborhood you’re in is at your fingertips.

Click on “Where am I?” and NabeWise will pinpoint your location, taking you to an overview of the neighborhood you’re currently in.

An editorial description, neighborhood reputation and rankings, as well as reviews & tips from locals in the neighborhood all come together to help you understand the area in real time.

Elmwood Theatre at Night, photo by JoeInSouthernCA

Back in the day, practically every main street in America had its own little piece of Hollywood. Before television, the internet, and smart phones, glamorous single screen movie theatres were a dime a dozen. Now few and far between, these vestiges of the past are something of a novelty. You can’t help feel a bit nostalgic for cinema’s golden era when you step up to a cute little ticket booth surrounded by extravagant architecture and the glare of neon lights.

In the 1910s and 20s “movie palaces went hand in hand with the over-the-top fantasies and adventures the studios were producing,” says Katherine Petrin, VP of the San Francisco Neighborhood Theatre Foundation and contributing author to Left in the Dark: Portraits of San Francisco Movie Theatres. “From small towns to the biggest cities it was common to find extremely expressive, ornate theatres. The studios built them and it was in their interest to have audiences from coast to coast,” she adds.

Grand Lake Theatre, photo by Batbob

Even though they were part of nationwide building campaigns, neighborhood theatres really felt like local businesses. That’s probably because these iconic landmarks became practically synonymous with their neighborhoods—often bearing the same names. Where I grew up in the Grand Lake area, the Grand Lake Theatre’s exuberant display of neon always seemed like the neighborhood’s welcome sign. Other theatre designs made charming references to their neighborhood’s unique identity. The Alameda’s stylized art deco sea creatures and wave details speak to its island setting.

So where have all the neighborhood theatres gone?  Today’s characterless multiplexes aren’t nearly as cool, but they sure have stolen the limelight. According to Petrin, “most people date the decline of movie theatres to the postwar era. You had television, suburban migration, car culture, and multiplexes.  There were also changes in the film distribution system that forced studios to divest of their ownership in movie theatres.” Now distributors decide the what, when, and where of box offices, and those with multiple screens have the most clout.

inside the Alameda Theatre

Like actors trying to reinvent themselves, the surviving neighborhood theatres have undergone various forms of plastic surgery. Theatres like the Piedmont and the Elmwood subdivided upper floors to fit additional screens inside their dainty buildings. Then there are more visible transformations, like the Alameda, which was restored and reopened as a theatre with an adjoining multiplex next door. Star status goes to the original box office, opulent lobby, and gilded auditorium, while the younger understudy does most of the work.

Programming for niche audiences and playing up connections to the community have also helped theatres survive. With its proximity to UC Berkeley, the Elmwood’s proprietors clearly have their highly educated and culturally sophisticated audience pegged: they show a mix of high-quality, independent, and foreign films. The Grand Lake Theatre uses its marquee like a message board to comment on exorbitant parking meter rates or to express support for Occupy Oakland—sentiments that resonate with the area’s left-leaning residents.

Fairfax Theatre

Not surprisingly, the theatres that still show movies tend to be in dense, pedestrian friendly areas with lots of restaurants and nightlife. In East Bay neighborhoods hit hardest by the mid-twentieth-century decline of urban commercial zones, theatres still stand but don’t necessarily show films. Downtown Oakland’s Fox and Paramount were premiere movie palaces in the 1930s when the city was a glamorous place to be. The stunning art deco Paramount is a ballet and symphony hall, and the Hindu-style Fox is a concert venue that spawned a slew of loungy bars and hip restaurants when it recently reopened.

Many of East Oakland’s neighborhood movie theatres are even further from their original uses. The Allendale at 3116 Liese Avenue was converted into apartments, and the gorgeous Spanish style Fairfax at 5345 Foothill Boulevard has been a church since the 1970s.

Allendale Theater Apartments

Unless you live in the boonies, your hometown probably had a movie theatre too back in the day. If you want to find out what happened to it, check out www.cinematreasures.org. This fascinating nationwide catalogue of theatres past and present allows you to search for theatres by city. I was curious about Oakland’s bustling Fruitvale district, so I looked it up and found out that a Wendy’s parking lot now sits on the site of the old theatre. Not exactly a Hollywood ending, but a good reminder that for every theatre still standing, several others had their final curtain calls long ago. As neighborhoods revitalize, it could mean even more tear jerking teardowns. So what can you do? Buy a ticket, get some popcorn, and spend a few hours watching light dance across a silver screen!